Now mind you:
not so much…)
of ALL the parts. Once I had them
together, I literally started from the top down. First thing, Take the Main tank, the 20LB Large
Tank, and using the 1 ¼ INCH WRENCH remove the Tank Fill Valve. Depending on which model you bought, there
may be a spinning black plastic guard.
This does NOT need to be removed.
In fact, I suggest leaving it on there to assist in protecting the Tank
Tape, wrap the threads of the Tank Fill Valve on the upper part of
the valve. DO NOT WRAP THE BASE OF THE VALVE. This’s because it’ll make it impossible to
remove it from the tank when you are trying to refill the Main Tank.
the following parts:
Male NPT https://amzn.to/2mXkvTe
Wrap all of the threaded sections of the gathered parts with between 2 ½
to 3 turns on the threads. Make sure its
neat and tight and that you cut it away -cleanly-. Put these aside for now, but have them ready
Female NPT https://amzn.to/2lpsuYE
individual sub-parts including a Large Brass Nut, a Small Brass Nut, and
a Plastic White Washer
Male NPT X 4.5” Length https://amzn2kQ656A.to/
female to 1/8″ female NPT and
thread it onto the 1/8” male NPT to 1/8” male NPT x 4.5” length Tighten as much as you can by hand.
Brass Nut like so:
be hanging relatively loose. Get The
Universal Paint Ball Fill Adapter, and insert the other end of the 1/8” male
NPT to 1/8” male NPT x 4.5” length
Adapter. Once its hand tight, get
the 11/16” Deep Socket ½” Drive and
the 1/2inch drive socket. Slide the Large Brass Nut off of
the Small Brass Nut and insert the Small Brass Nut into the 11/16” Deep Socket ½” Drive and -FIRMLY-
crank the 1/8” male all the way into the Paint Ball Fill Adapter. Make sure its nice n’ tight, as this is a
potential leak area where the propellant gasses are going to be feeding the Flammenwerfer. Once its good, slide the small nut
back into the Large nut, insert the Plastic White Washer into the
Large Bass Nut to secure the small nut inside. Click it in place so the tube is locked in
looks like this:
ain’t got no leaks. Especially before you
start drilling on the tank itself, because once that’s done, chasing itty-bitty
air leaks is a stone bitch (as I found out the hard way.)
Valve onto the tank. Be careful
re-threading it on the tank. The tank is
aluminum, and if you cross thread it, say goodbye to about $100. Once you have it on, (being careful of the plastic
guard, give the Fill Valve a slightly more-than-hand-tight spin. You -don’t- want to crank down on it. Just enough for the rubber gasket to fully engage.
is the 1-1/8” wrench. You’ll be utilizing this on the Large Brass Nut to crank the assembly nice n’tight.
The Universal Filler Valve needs to be vertical with it’s valve
locked in and EVERYTHING is tight, grab a 24oz CO2 Tank https://amzn.to/2moGdzl
filled. Should be about 5 bux to get it
filled. This’s why I like to have a few
extra (2X for a total of 3) on hand.
Once it’s filled, bring it home and get s dish with some soapy water for
a leak test. 2:1 ratio dawn detergent so
it’ll blow nice bubbles if/when it leaks.
Install it into the Universal Filler Valve. Make sure that you have both valve(s)
closed BEFORE you install the CO2 tank.
Valve first. Look and listen to see
if it is holding pressure. If so, Open
the Valve. Watch the seams on the
junction points. Dribble some soapy water
on it. Observe. No bubbles = good. Open the Main Tank Valve. You should hear the tank fill with CO2
and become pressurized. Be VERY CAREFUL
while doing this. I recommend Eye
Protection and leather gloves in case -something- ruptures.
Turn off the Valves in reverse order.
Remove the CO2 Tank SLOWLY.
Bleed off the CO2 CAREFULLY EVERY STEP OF THE WAY. Fuck around, and you’ll find out the hard
The Intrepid Reporter