Greetings Me Droogs and Droogettes!
This here is stage one of the Build. Now, quite honestly, I’m re-publishing this from my original poast. This step is out of date
I upgraded and made a better design for this thing involving a less-stress design for the C02 Feed involving a paintball regulator connected to a flexible hose. Instead of utilizing the 4.5 x 1/8 threaded pipe, you use the paintball mount AFTER dismounting the bayonette joint. It’s cleaner, and puts less weight stress on the whole C02 system.. My advice? Wait for the Update poast at the end of the series.
All You Wannabe Pyromaniacs
OK:Steps for the Build. Now mind you:
I AIN’T RESPONSIBLE FOR SHIT.
I KNOW NUTHIN’ I HEAR NUTHIN’ AND I SEE NUTHIN’.
THIS’S STRICTLY FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES
AND IF YOU ARE CRAZY ENOUGH
TO FOLLOW THE BOUNCING BALL, ITS -ALL- ON YOU.
(You, yeah you… not so much…)
For the sake of clarity, Parts will be in BOLD BLACK
Tools will be shown in BOLD RED
I started off by doing accountability of ALL the parts. Once I had them together, I literally started from the top down. First thing, Take the Main tank, the 20LB Large Tank, and using the 1 ¼ INCH WRENCH remove the Tank Fill Valve. Depending on which model you bought, there may be a spinning black plastic guard. This does NOT need to be removed. In fact, I suggest leaving it on there to assist in protecting the Tank Fill Valve.
Using the Yellow Teflon Tape, wrap the threads of the Tank Fill Valve on the upper part of the valve. DO NOT WRAP THE BASE OF THE VALVE. This’s because it’ll make it impossible to remove it from the tank when you are trying to refill the Main Tank.
Gather the following parts:
And do the same. Wrap all of the threaded sections of the gathered parts with between 2 ½ to 3 turns on the threads. Make sure its neat and tight and that you cut it away -cleanly-. Put these aside for now, but have them ready for:
This is made up of 3 individual sub-parts including a Large Brass Nut, a Small Brass Nut, and a Plastic White Washer
Take the small brass nut from the 320 cga female to 1/8″ female NPT and thread it onto the 1/8” male NPT to 1/8” male NPT x 4.5” length Tighten as much as you can by hand.
Take this assembly, and insert the tube into the Large Brass Nut like so:
Once you have this ready, the Large Brass Nut should be hanging relatively loose. Get The Universal Paint Ball Fill Adapter, and insert the other end of the 1/8” male NPT to 1/8” male NPT x 4.5” length
Into the 1/8th hole in the side of the Fill Adapter. Once its hand tight, get the 11/16” Deep Socket ½” Drive and the 1/2inch drive socket. Slide the Large Brass Nut off of the Small Brass Nut and insert the Small Brass Nut into the 11/16” Deep Socket ½” Drive and -FIRMLY- crank the 1/8” male all the way into the Paint Ball Fill Adapter. Make sure its nice n’ tight, as this is a potential leak area where the propellant gasses are going to be feeding the Flammenwerfer. Once its good, slide the small nut back into the Large nut, insert the Plastic White Washer into the Large Bass Nut to secure the small nut inside. Click it in place so the tube is locked in place.
Once this’s completed, you should have an assembly that looks like this:
The next step is a Pressure test. I suggest doing this first so that you know you ain’t got no leaks. Especially before you start drilling on the tank itself, because once that’s done, chasing itty-bitty air leaks is a stone bitch (as I found out the hard way.)
Step Four: Air Pressure Assembly Test
Reassemble the Tank Fill Valve onto the tank. Be careful re-threading it on the tank. The tank is aluminum, and if you cross thread it, say goodbye to about $100. Once you have it on, (being careful of the plastic guard, give the Fill Valve a slightly more-than-hand-tight spin. You -don’t- want to crank down on it. Just enough for the rubber gasket to fully engage.
What You DO need to get ready is the 1-1/8” wrench. You’ll be utilizing this on the Large Brass Nut to crank the assembly nice n’tight. The Universal Filler Valve needs to be vertical with it’s valve on top.
And take it down to the local paintball store to get it filled. Should be about 5 bux to get it filled. This’s why I like to have a few extra (2X for a total of 3) on hand. Once it’s filled, bring it home and get s dish with some soapy water for a leak test. 2:1 ratio dawn detergent so it’ll blow nice bubbles if/when it leaks. Install it into the Universal Filler Valve. Make sure that you have both valve(s) closed BEFORE you install the CO2 tank.
Insert the CO2 tank into the Universal Filler Valve first. Look and listen to see if it is holding pressure. If so, Open the Valve. Watch the seams on the junction points. Dribble some soapy water on it. Observe. No bubbles = good. Open the Main Tank Valve. You should hear the tank fill with CO2 and become pressurized. Be VERY CAREFUL while doing this. I recommend Eye Protection and leather gloves in case -something- ruptures.
If there are no apparent leaks, Turn off the Valves in reverse order. Remove the CO2 Tank SLOWLY. Bleed off the CO2 CAREFULLY EVERY STEP OF THE WAY. Fuck around, and you’ll find out the hard way.
OK Enough for now. Watch for the next steps after a while.
Til then, More Later I Remain The Intrepid Reporter